Behind the Scenes: A Look Into Our Manufacturing Process in Pakistan

Step 1: Selecting the Hides

The process starts with the raw material. A jacket cannot be better than the hide it is cut from, so selection sets the ceiling for the finished garment. Three types of hide are common in jackets:

• Sheepskin and lambskin: soft and light, used for fashion jackets.
• Cowhide: thick and firm, used for heavier jackets and riding gear.
• Goatskin: a middle ground, flexible and tough, with a pebbled grain.

Hides also differ in grade. As Wikipedia explains, full-grain leather keeps the entire grain layer without removing the surface, so it develops a patina with use rather than simply wearing out. Split leather is made from the layer left after the top grain is separated.

Step 2: Tanning and Dyeing

Tanning turns raw skin into leather that does not rot. The same source describes vegetable tanning as the oldest method and chrome tanning as the most common in modern use, and it treats aniline as a finishing type: leather coloured with a soluble dye that lets the natural surface of the hide show through.

The choice of tanning and finish affects softness, colour depth and how the jacket ages. It is worth asking a maker which finish a jacket uses, because a heavily coated surface and an aniline surface wear differently.

Step 3: Pattern Making and Cutting

Once the leather is ready, it is laid out for cutting. Every hide has its own thickness, stretch and natural marks, so cutters check each one before cutting rather than treating it as uniform cloth.

• Panels for left and right sleeves are matched so the grain runs the same way.
• Marks and weak areas are kept away from seams.

Cutting follows templates, and accuracy here decides how well the panels meet at the seams and how the jacket hangs on the body.

Step 4: Stitching

Stitching is the most demanding stage. Leather is harder to sew than cotton, and a needle leaves a permanent hole, so a seam cannot be unpicked and redone the way a seam in a t-shirt can. A crooked line often means recutting the panel.

Heavy-duty industrial machines and strong thread are typical, and stress points such as the armpits, pockets and crotch seam are reinforced. Leather Collection makes its jackets hand-stitched and to order. To see how panels come together in different styles, browse Custom Leather Jackets across the range.

Step 5: Hardware and Lining

Zippers, snaps and buttons are small parts with a large effect on daily use. Look for these points on any jacket:

• Zippers: they should run smoothly, lock securely and not catch the lining.
• Snaps and buckles: they should close firmly and resist corrosion.
• Lining: satin or cotton linings feel different against the skin, and the choice affects warmth and breathability.

For hardware and finishing on a completed jacket, see the Classic Brown Bomber Pilot Leather Jacket .

Step 6: Final Inspection

Before a jacket is packed, a typical inspection looks at four things:

1. Seams: straight and secure.
2. Hardware: zippers move easily and snaps close firmly.
3. Finish: colour is consistent across panels.
4. Measurements: the jacket matches the size on the label.

A loose thread or a crooked seam is corrected before the jacket leaves the workshop.

Skill and Time

Behind each of these stages is hand skill. Cutting, stitching and finishing are done by trained workers, and the time spent at each stage shows in how the jacket fits and wears. Race-inspired pieces follow the same sequence with more panels and seams, as seen in rider replica work such as the Max Biaggi range .